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Whether in Mylapore, Chennai or Matunga, Mumbai, the fragrance of freshly-roasted beans, with their promise of a hot, bracing shot of the sweet, milky coffee, has long defined a certain, typically South Indian style of coffee drinking experience.Among the lattes, flat whites and espressos on its menu, Tata Starbucks will now feature South Indian filter coffee \u2013 one of the \u201cregional favourites\u201d that the chain is introducing, along with masala chai and small bites, as it seeks to expand its reach in India. The fan base of this style of coffee \u2014 served milky and hot, usually, in the stainless steel or brass combination of \u201ctumbler\u201d and \u201cdavara\u201d \u2014 has grown in the last couple of decades. However, its inclusion on the menu of a brand with a pan-India presence might herald a mainstream status that has long eluded filter coffee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Whether in Mylapore, Chennai<\/a> or Matunga, Mumbai<\/a>, the fragrance of freshly-roasted beans, with their promise of a hot, bracing shot of the sweet, milky coffee, has long defined a certain, typically South Indian style of coffee drinking experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The \u201cfilter\u201d pot used to make it is a metal utensil with two cylindrical parts: coarsely-ground coffee powder is put in the top cylinder, which has fine holes in its base, and pressed down using a metal disc. Hot water is poured over this and the coffee is allowed to brew for about 10 minutes, with the decoction slowly dripping and collecting in the bottom cylinder. The decoction is mixed with milk \u2014 cow milk, strictly, if one wishes to make the famous Kumbakonam \u201cdegree\u201d coffee \u2013 and sugar, and served in the tumbler and davara.The coffee itself is, ideally, made using freshly roasted and ground coffee beans, with purists insisting that no chicory be added to it. Many commercially-available blends, however, do contain some chicory.<\/p>\n\n\n\n While tea\/chai established pan-Indian dominance \u2014 in large part due to a marketing push in the 1930s by the British who were seeking a wider consumer base for the colonial tea industry, the consumption of coffee has been far more limited. The coffee-drinking habit really took hold in Tamil society in the late 19th-early 20th century. Coffee cultivation may have been established in the Mysore region by the 18th century, but most of it was being sent to Europe. As documented by historian A R Venkatachalapathy in \u2018In Those Days There Was No Coffee\u2019, by the turn of the 20th century, an enthusiasm for coffee gripped the emerging Tamil middle class.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Expectedly, cultural anxiety accompanied the enthusiasm, with criticism that connected it with \u201cevery conceivable and inconceivable malady\u201d. It was deemed more addictive than alcohol, and Venkatachalapathy notes that women, in particular, were seen as having succumbed to its \u201cdangers\u201d. Despite this, coffee became the preeminent beverage in Tamil society, prestigious enough that not offering it to guests indicated a lack of social grace.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Coffee, or kaapi, had become a \u201ccultural marker\u201d and symbol of modernity, particularly for the Brahmin middle-class, distinguished from tea which was viewed as the beverage of the \u201curban working class\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2018Breaking Brahmin orthodoxy\u2019<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n In his book, Venkatachalapathy records a tongue-in-cheek description from 1926 of the \u201ccoffee hotels\u201d (also known as \u201ccoffee clubs\u201d) that had become increasingly popular: \u201cA public tavern instituted by Brahmins. A messenger from God to break Brahmin orthodoxy.\u201d Even though coffee hotels were frequented by all kinds of people, they were mostly owned and run by Brahmins and almost always had segregated sections for Brahmins and non-Brahmins. While the caste-based segregation is mostly gone, the influence of Brahmins on the filter kaapi culture remains visible to this day in the very design of the utensils used to drink the beverage: the tumbler and davara were designed with outward-facing, lipped rims so that the drinker could pour the coffee straight into his mouth without letting it touch the utensils.As coffee-drinking became common in other regions of South India, the establishment of \u201cUdupi\u201d hotels in other parts of the country \u2014 particularly Bombay and\u00a0Delhi<\/a>\u00a0\u2014 introduced filter coffee to newer populations. Even now, however, the use of specialised equipment, as well as a certain degree of patience and skill, means that only devoted fans will make the effort to prepare filter coffee at home \u2013 despite the wider availability of the filter pots and even packaged decoctions.<\/p>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n Bangalore, Karnataka, India <\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Whether in Mylapore, Chennai or Matunga, Mumbai, the fragrance of freshly-roasted beans, with their promise of a hot, bracing shot of the sweet, milky coffee, has long defined a certain, typically South Indian style of coffee drinking experience.Among the lattes, flat whites and espressos on its menu, Tata Starbucks will now feature South Indian filter […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":172,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[18,1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/235"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=235"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/235\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":753,"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/235\/revisions\/753"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/172"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=235"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=235"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/srecoffee.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=235"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}A brief history of filter coffee<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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